Carpet Removal & Floor Reveal
Priced POA
Under a great many Peninsula carpets there is a hardwood floor that has been protected from UV and foot traffic for forty or fifty years, and it is often in better condition than anything laid since. Finding out is not difficult. Lift a corner of carpet in an inconspicuous spot — behind a door, inside a wardrobe — and look at what is underneath and, more importantly, how thick it is.
What you are hoping to see is solid tongue-and-groove boards, either narrow-strip native hardwood at 65 to 85 millimetres or wider Baltic Pine at around 150. What you do not want to see is particleboard, plywood or a thin overlay, which means the carpet is the finished floor and there is nothing underneath to restore. That single check saves a lot of speculation and it takes five minutes.
Assuming there is timber, the reveal itself is largely a hand-work exercise and it is the part people underestimate. Carpet and underlay come up easily. Tack strips do not — they are nailed down every hundred millimetres or so around the entire perimeter of every room, and lifting them without tearing chunks out of the boards takes care. Every nail left behind has to be pulled or punched.
Staples are the real work. Underlay is stapled down in its hundreds across a room, and every single staple has to come out by hand before an abrasive touches the floor. One missed staple tears a sanding belt and scores a line the length of the room, which then has to be sanded out at the cost of extra thickness. This is slow, unglamorous work that does not look like much on an invoice and is the single biggest determinant of whether the sanding goes well.
Adhesive is the other common find. Where lino or vinyl was laid directly onto the boards at some point — extremely common in Peninsula kitchens and hallways — there is usually a black bituminous mastic underneath that has to be scraped and cut back. It loads abrasive quickly and it is genuinely unpleasant to remove. At $10 to $20 per square metre, it is the most common reason a promotional quote gets revised upward on site.
Once the floor is exposed, the honest assessment happens. Thickness above the tongue determines how many sands are left. Board condition determines what needs replacing. Moisture readings determine whether the floor can be cut now or needs to wait. Previous sanding history — visible as a dished perimeter where an edger has cut deep, or as drum stop marks — determines what can realistically be corrected.
We will tell you plainly where a revealed floor is not worth restoring, and some are not. A floor sanded twice already with no thickness left, widespread borer damage, water damage through a wet area, or a large area of mismatched patching from decades of renovation can all make the arithmetic point toward overlay instead. Better to hear that at the reveal than after paying for a sand that cannot deliver.
Where it is worth doing — and on the Peninsula it usually is, particularly in 1950s to 70s stock that has been carpeted since new — the result is a floor that has never been cut, has its full thickness available, and has been protected from the UV that ambers and the traffic that wears. Those are the best floors we work on, and they are hiding under carpet all over Frankston and the Peninsula.
The reveal is also the moment to take moisture readings, because a carpeted floor tells you nothing about what is happening underneath it. Carpet and underlay act as a blanket over the boards, and a subfloor that has been quietly damp for years can sit under an apparently sound carpet without any visible sign. Pin-type readings across multiple points of the newly exposed floor, and above 14 to 16 per cent the sanding waits until the subfloor ventilation is dealt with.
One practical note for anyone planning this around a renovation: reveal the floor before you commit to the rest of the scope, not after. What is underneath the carpet changes decisions about skirtings, door heights, thresholds into wet areas and whether a room gets timber or something else entirely. Finding out on the day the painters arrive is how a small discovery turns into a programme problem, and lifting a corner of carpet weeks earlier costs nothing at all.
OUR PROCESS
- 01 Initial check: carpet lifted in an inconspicuous corner to confirm solid timber rather than particleboard, plywood or thin overlay.
- 02 Carpet and underlay cut, rolled and removed from site, with disposal handled rather than left in the driveway.
- 03 Tack strips lifted carefully around the full perimeter of every room, without tearing out the board edges beneath them.
- 04 Every remaining tack strip nail pulled or punched below the surface.
- 05 Full staple extraction by hand across the entire floor area — the single most important preparation step before sanding.
- 06 Legacy adhesive located and removed: black bituminous mastic under old lino scraped, softened and cut back.
- 07 Condition assessment on the exposed floor: species, thickness above the tongue, board soundness, previous sanding history.
- 08 Pin-type moisture readings across multiple points, with a firm 14 to 16 per cent threshold before any cutting.
- 09 Honest recommendation on whether the floor is economic to restore, or whether overlay is the better outcome.
- 10 Sand-and-polish or restoration proceeding from there, quoted on the band rate for the suburb.
WHAT’S INCLUDED
- Carpet, underlay, tack strip and staple removal: $10 to $20/m², itemised rather than assumed into a sanding rate.
- Legacy adhesive removal — black mastic under old lino — within the same $10 to $20/m² range depending on coverage and stubbornness.
- Carpet and underlay taken off site and disposed of, not left for you to deal with.
- Full hand staple extraction, because one missed staple tears a belt and scores the floor.
- Thickness above the tongue measured on the exposed floor before any sanding is committed to.
- Moisture readings taken across multiple points once the floor is uncovered.
- An honest verdict on whether the revealed floor is worth restoring, given before you spend anything on sanding.
- Sanding then quoted on the standard band rate for your suburb, with any repairs itemised separately.
COMMON QUESTIONS
How do I know if there is timber under my carpet?
Lift a corner somewhere inconspicuous — behind a door or inside a wardrobe — and look. Solid tongue-and-groove boards, either narrow hardwood strip or wider Baltic Pine, mean there is a floor worth investigating. Particleboard, plywood or a thin overlay means the carpet is the finished floor and there is nothing underneath to restore.
What does the removal cost?
$10 to $20 per square metre covering carpet, underlay, tack strips, staples and any legacy adhesive, with disposal included. The range depends mostly on adhesive — a clean carpet lift is at the bottom of it, and a floor with black mastic under old lino across the hallway and kitchen is at the top.
Will there be nail holes around the edges?
Yes. Tack strips are nailed down every hundred millimetres or so around the perimeter of every room, which leaves a continuous band of holes 20 to 30 millimetres in from each wall. They fill and blend well and largely disappear under the finish, and most of that band ends up under furniture anyway.
Why does staple removal matter so much?
Because one missed staple tears a sanding belt and scores a line the length of the room, which then has to be sanded out at the cost of board thickness you would rather keep. Underlay is stapled in its hundreds, every one comes out by hand, and it is the least visible and most consequential preparation step in the whole job.
What if the floor turns out to be in poor condition?
We tell you before you spend anything on sanding. A floor with no thickness left, widespread borer damage, water damage through a wet area or extensive mismatched patching may point toward overlay instead. That assessment happens at the reveal, which is exactly why the reveal and the sanding are separate decisions.
Can we do the carpet removal ourselves to save money?
You can, and plenty of clients do. The carpet and underlay are straightforward. Be careful lifting tack strips so you do not tear out board edges, and be thorough with the staples — every one, without exception. If you leave the staples we will have to do them anyway, so the saving only holds if the job is done completely.
Is a floor that has been under carpet for fifty years in good condition?
Usually very good, and that is the point. Carpet protects timber from the UV that ambers it and the traffic that wears it, so a floor carpeted since new has generally never been cut and has its full thickness available. Those are the best floors we work on, and there are a lot of them in 1950s to 70s Peninsula stock.
What is the black sticky stuff under the lino?
Bituminous mastic adhesive, used widely through the mid twentieth century to stick lino and vinyl directly to floorboards. It has to be scraped and cut back before sanding because it loads abrasive almost immediately. It is unpleasant, slow work and it is the single most common reason a promotional per-square-metre quote gets revised once someone is actually on site.